Vibrant Buenos Aires, Argentina

Experience a city with a rhythm like no other

By Nelza Oliveira

Buenos Aires, the third largest city of Latin America, is sophisticated, vibrant and cosmopolitan. In the capital of Argentina, the tourist is enchanted by the architecture in the European style, traditional cafes and restaurants, adorable street fairs, fancy stores, great shopping, museums, cultural centers, parks with great green areas and many places to relax and observe the beauty that are part of the postcards of the city.

The best way to get to know the city is to divide it in neighborhoods and walk. Each neighborhood brings an enchantment, several attractions, and an atmosphere unique to itself. Downtown, around Plaza de Mayo, concentrates most of Buenos Aires's historical monuments. The square unites the Madres of La Plaza of Mayo, mothers who lost their children during the military dictatorship of Argentina, and one can visit the Casa Rosada, home of the National Executive Branch, and the Cabildo, the only surviving building of colonial times.

The Metropolitan Cathedral is guarded by two soldiers solemnly dressed, immobile in the Buckingham Palace style, and hosts the mausoleum of the general San Martin, hero of Argentinean Independence. After admiring the architecture of the historical monuments and buildings in art nouveau and art déco style of the area, the sit down and take advantage of the beautiful Café Tortoni.

Inaugurated more than 150 years ago, the cafe is the most traditional in the city and famous for being frequented by great artists, among them, the famous Tango singer Carlos Gardel and the writer Jorge Luis Borges. In the surroundings, it's worth a look at the Obelisco, the Teatro Colón, and a long walk along Calle Florida, lined with shops that sell all skind of things, from leather articles to jewellery.

In its extension is located the sophisticated Galerías Pacífico, housing stores of the best international brands. The Galerias also shelters the beautiful Centro Cultural Borges, a cultural place where you can learn a little more about writer Jorge Luis Borges and see other exhibitions and shows. At night, Calle Florida is taken over by street vendors that do anything to attract tourists and sell good and cheap handicrafts.

The best day to visit San Telmo, the oldest neighborhood of Buenos Aires, is Sunday, when the street fair of antiquities takes place. Besides the antiques, clothing, porcelain and handicrafts, one can find a vast selection of restaurants and cafes around Dorrego Square, the heart of the fair. The street is also lively with several street musicians and performers.

Synonymous with Tango and soccer, the neighborhood of La Boca attracts attention with houses painted in many different bright colors. In La Boca is located the Boca Juniors soccer stadium, the team of the famous player Diego Maradona. Going to the stadium is crucial to getting in touch with the soccer passions of the Portenhos, as the inhabitants of Buenos are called (meaning people of the port).

Speaking of Tango, the sensual Argentinean rhythm can be enjoyed in several ways. The Tanguerías are totally designed for tourists and present a "jaw dropping" show with orchestras and dancers performing live, with dinner included. Milongas are casual balls frequented by people of all ages, where you can try to learn the first steps of tango.

In Caminito, the pedestrian street of 100 meters, tourists enjoy Tango performances in the street or bars. The street was founded by the famous local artist, Benito Quinquela Martín, who encouraged the residents to paint their houses colorfully and whose studio in the neighborhood was transformed into a museum (Museo of Bellas Artes de La Boca), with some of his works and other exhibitions. In La Boca, it's also worth a visit to the Fundación Proa, one of the best and newest galleries of the city.

Recoleta is one of the most aristocratic areas of the city, although the one thing that most attracts the attention of Argentineans and foreigners is the local cemetery, where the remains of Evita Perón are. Even today, many Argentineans gather in front of her mausoleum to mourn the death of the political leader and "standard bearer of humble ones". To the north of the gates of the cemetery, you can see the colonial baroque style of the church of Nuestra Señora del Pilar, built by the Jesuits in the beginning of the 17th century.

Buenos Aires Design is a closed shopping center dedicated to furniture and decoration. Walking a little more, you find the main Argentinean museum, Museo de Arte Moderno, with its refined predominantly European collection. Palermo, divided by zones, is the broadest neighborhood of the city. Palermo Soho is an elegant, bohemian and avant-garde zone full of fancy stores. Plaza Cortázar, in honor of the Argentinean writer Julio Cortázar, is the epicenter of the bohemian Soho. The busy square is surrounded by fancy trattorias, cafes and bars.

The Bosques (forests) de Palermo host many natural areas. The green zone includes a Jardín Japonés (Japanese garden), Planetário (planetarium) Galileo, Jardín Botânico (Botanical Garden), the Zoo and other areas with artificial lakes surrounded by trees. In those places, the portenhos meet to sun bathe and to walk. Also in the neighborhood is the Malba (Museum of Latin-America Art). Malba boasts an important collection of Latin-American artists from the 20 century.

Buenos Aires's newest neighborhood is Puerto Madero, reborn in 1991 with the recovery of the old port zone. The neighborhood has become a high end tourist attraction with sophisticated restaurants and night clubs, where one can stay until dawn. The Puente de La Mujer, abstractly meant to illustrate a couple dancing Tango, is a magnificent bridge that links the two sides of the old dock, .

No matter where you go in this "Paris of Latin America", you're sure to find a vibrant and pulsating city. The biggest question is where to start.